Jacar Baldwin
JACAR BALDWIN is a climber.
Residing in Houston, Jacar coaches other climbers and enjoys spreading his passion for the sport. He’s traveled to beautiful locations to experience crags in other places, like Portugal, and has traveled to prolific climbing spots in the USA too.
You can check out more about his climbing journey and advocacy for climbers of color by getting in touch with him in the following ways:
Instagram: @jacar.climbs
Email: lifeby.jayb@gmail.com
Pronouns: he/him/his
ATHLETE OF THE MONTH - AUGUST 2024
“So I give myself grace. I won’t be pushing past my limits every day. I won’t send every single thing on the first go, and sometimes I’m not going to be able to even establish routes. And all of that is okay. Be okay with showing up, and trying. My priority is progression, in any and every form. And showing up is the best thing to praise yourself for.”
Can you tell us a bit about your background and how you got into climbing?
I'm originally from Northern Virginia and moved to Houston about 5 years ago. Growing up I did multiple sports, with football being my longest, and wrestling being the most recent in High school. I got into Rock Climbing because in trying to continue staying healthy and active, I just wanted to find a gym. I found the closest one to me, and it ended up being one of the largest climbing gyms. Originally I was working out, but I figured since I was spending money on the climbing part, I should give it a shot. I fell in love with it, and I haven't stopped since.
What motivates you to stay active and adventurous?
What motivates me is exploring my body's potential when pushing my limits. Climbing allows you to not only get great exercise but also get through mental barriers as well. It creates the environment to learn what you're capable of and gives you all the tools to try it at your leisure. Which was very inviting to me.
Can you share a memorable experience or achievement from your climbing career?
A memorable experience in my journey was traveling to Portugal with climbing friends I found, and exploring. Just being in such an amazing place, with cool people, doing a sport that I loved, made it a time that I could never forget. And in terms of climbing, I climbed my next two hardest routes, back-to-back, on that trip. The right environment creates the right space to try hard, and the vibes were up to par.
What's the most fun part about climbing to you?
The most fun part of climbing is all the avenues and disciplines you're able to explore that still fall under the category of "climbing". You have bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and competitive climbing, and each has its appeal to certain people. Everybody can find their "niche" and each subcategory lends itself to one another. The range of possibilities just grows the more you learn.
What's your least favorite part about climbing?
My least favorite part of the sport is its inclusivity. I was fortunate enough to be able to create a space for myself in the gym, as well as fortunate enough to get as good as I have in my two years. However, through my experience, I've found multiple barriers that are hard for people to break through to get into the sport. The most obvious being financial, being able to both afford an initial day pass and then an ongoing membership. But once you spend time in the sport, you can experience accessibility barriers, gender and race barriers, and a bias towards certain demographics. Thankfully there are organizations and partners like Houston Black Climber United, Brown Girls Climb, and Bolt & Revolt who take initiatives in knocking down some of these barriers to make climbing more accessible to as many people as possible.
How do you balance training, work, and personal life?
Being that I am a rock climbing coach, I've been able to balance these easier because either before or after climbing coaching sessions, I make time to train and climb. But for most people, it revolves around their 9-5's. I recommend firstly having a rest day between climbing, which makes time for recovery as well as your personal life, and then recognizing where your priorities lie. If you want to have good overall health, you may prioritize working out over climbing. But if you value climbing more, then having 2 climbing days and then 1 workout day, may fit the bill. Each person prioritizes things differently. You'll find your balance and decide how to spend your time.
What does a typical training session look like for you, if you have them?
A typical training session starts with a 15-30min dynamic, mobility warmup. Then I'll spend the next 30-45 minutes with on-the-wall warmup climbing on things below my flash grade (V0-V8). After, I'll spend the rest of my session climbing either High Intensity, Low Volume routes, or High Volume, Low Intensity (2-3 hours).
How do you stay mentally focused and motivated during challenging times?
I mentally stay focused by giving myself grace often. Each day I step into the gym, I'm not the same person. My experiences throughout the day could cause me to feel not my best. A conversation could take away from my focus for the session. Any small distraction, adds up to who I show up to the gym as, each day. So I give myself grace. I won't be pushing past my limits every day. I won't send every single thing on the first go, and sometimes I'm not going to be able to even establish routes. And all of that is okay. Be okay with showing up, and trying. My priority is progression, in any and every form. And showing up is the best thing to praise yourself for.
When you're spending a day engaging in your favorite adventure passions, what kind of snacks or favorite meals do you have that keep you fueled throughout?
I'm a big snack guy, but I'll start with the healthy stuff. I love a banana, apple, or carrot for sessions. But I need some quick energy, so I'll go towards a chocolate bar, a Hostess Snack, or a hydration drink. I try not to go too heavy during sessions with eating; but trying to fuel and recover properly, I lean hard towards meals.
For nighttime meals, heavy on carbs like rice or noodles, veggies, and proteins, and I love cooking, so most times I make my meals. For breakfast, my big three are potatoes, eggs, and a sausage protein of some sort as well.
“But once you spend time in the sport, you can experience accessibility barriers, gender and race barriers, and a bias towards certain demographics. Thankfully there are organizations and partners like Houston Black Climber United, Brown Girls Climb, and Bolt & Revolt who take initiatives in knocking down some of these barriers to make climbing more accessible to as many people as possible.”
Do you have any go-to recovery practices after a tough workout or adventure?
My go to recovery practices are mobility exercises like Cossack squats, lunges, and typically a flow Yoga circuit. Something to cool me down while keeping me limber.
Do you have any tips for beginners who want to get started in climbing?
For anybody wanting to get started, I'd recommend coming with people who you enjoy, and who enjoy the sport. Pay attention to the safety videos - I promise it’s meaningful. And also focus on having fun. A lot of people rush into the sport, and forget what it means to enjoy it. Try things out, try out different walls- a good gym will have beginner routes in multiple styles to allow people to experience the sport wholly.
What gear or equipment do you consider essential for your adventures?
I consider rock climbing shoes, and climbing chalk essential parts of the sport (speaking directly to bouldering). Most gyms will provide the safety equipment needed, however. But for those beginning to get serious, this is where I would start.
Who are your biggest inspirations or role models in the adventure and sports world?
My biggest inspirations are the athletes and organizers dedicating their time and efforts to expand the sport when nobody else will. Through non-profit organizations, film, and media, through just hosting events, each small step allows a new person to come in and have an experience all their own. And I love that.
Any other favorite outdoor adventure type or sport?
Other favorites of mine include wrestling, gymnastics, basketball, football, and breaking.
When you're not climbing, how do you like to spend your time?
When I'm not training, I spend my time enjoying photography, cooking, travelling to new places, and mentoring people.
What future goals or adventures do you have planned, and how are you preparing for them?
Future goals include collaborating with brands and organizations to invest in new areas with programs, products, and environments to let under-privileged people with limited resources explore the outdoors. I seek to work alongside individuals who value experimental exposition in the outdoors, and educational teachings on how to explore this space safely with the wellbeing of nature in mind.
